Greece may be famous for its exciting summers, but have you ever thought of staying longer to escape the cold, for instance? Or just for a change? If you’re a digital nomad, a retiree in full-time vacation mode, or simply someone dreaming of living in Greece off season, read on.
In this ever-changing world, being flexible and adaptable is perhaps the best thing we can do. It’s not always easy, but as Darwin said… it’s a must if you want to continue living a fulfilled life. With changing weather patterns and new ways of living, working, and traveling post-Covid, Greece is emerging as a place to go to escape the cold. Not only as a holiday spot but a place where many in Northern Europe, are calling home for at least six months a year. Many Americans and Canadians, not to mention diaspora Greeks, are also doing the same thing. I know I did and have never regretted it.
Why Spending Half the Year in Greece is a Good Idea
I can clearly remember those dark, grey skies, the snow and ice, and the relentless below-zero temperatures of my hometown Chicago. We were literally trapped by winter for six whole months. I’m still trying to shun the thoughts of the towering mountains of frozen, dirty, towed up snow along the roads and express ways that melted late in spring. Everything was done indoors because going outside meant dressing up as like snowman and that along took half an hour. Not to mention the shovelling and clearing the snow from the car.
Sound familiar? Well, these are a few reasons why I decided to move to Greece. And more and more people from Scandinavia to North America are now thinking of or doing the very same thing. After all, we only have one life, so might as well live it well!
For those of you who have holidayed here: you know the answer. We enjoy more than 330 days a year of sunlight, the winters here are mild, we enjoy a slower pace of living, life is more affordable, a beach and the sea is always nearby, we can swim almost all year round, we still do many things outdoors, and thankfully people are still welcoming, friendly and open, particularly in the villages and towns outside Athens.
In short, many things are easier here.
What You Need to Know to Make Greece Your Half-year Home
1. The weather here actually lets you live
Compared to Chicago, and other Northern European countries, weathering winter in Greece is a piece of cake. It’s December as I write this and the temperature outside is 22°C. Yes, that’s 71 degrees °F!
On Crete and in Southern Greece, winter temps hover at around 12-18°C (53-65°F) during the day.
Rough winter in many parts of Greece doesn’t exist. Maybe a few rains – if we’re lucky – in October and November, and then it’s mostly sun and clear blue skies.
Even on cooler days, you’ll find cafes and even bars serving outdoors with the help of heaters. And thanks to the ‘kind’ weather, people walk everywhere and life is happening outside, which really makes you feel alive.
2. More affordable
Although the cost of living has increased drastically compared to when I first moved here, it’s still more affordable for both Northern Europeans and Americans.
You can find long-term winter stays costing about €350-€900 per month. This of course depends on region and size of home. Whatever the case, a flat with a sea view near Athens is still much cheaper compared to anywhere else. If you choose to live outside Athens, in Kalamata or Nafplio, for instance, then expect a greater variety of options and lower prices.
The cost of eating out is also reasonable and one thing I am thankful for is that you can still find affordable fresh produce year-round.
One of the main reasons many Northern Europeans are making Greece their home away from home is the cost of heating. With fewer days of real cold, money spent on heating is saved for other things, so in that sense, Greece can feel like a financial relief.
3. Slower pace – Quality of life
The first thing expats I’ve interviewed for The Greek Vibe’s “Touched by Greece” series refer to when I ask them why they now live in Greece is the slow way of living.
Most first came here on vacation and decided to leave super-busy careers behind and set up house in Greece, whether in the city or on a Greek island like Kythera or Crete, or even in Cyprus.
There are so many things that make winter in Greece rewarding. Morning walks by the sea, a stroll through the loud open air laiki markets; we’re always out for coffee even if it’s only for an hour, we spend evenings in a warm taverna with friends; and on the islands or in small cities and villages, there is always some kind of happening that brings people together.
4. Greece feels warm and welcoming
The dream of moving or eventually living in Greece is not new. Writers and artists of all sorts have been making Greece their home since the 1930s. Henry Miller and Lawrence Durrell loved Corfu. John Fowles stayed on Spetses. Leonard Cohen lived on Hydra. Robert Redford did a stint on Crete. Patrick Leigh Fermor called Mani his home. Tom Hanks has a house on Patmos. And the list is endless. And as of late, many digital nomads find it fun to work from Greece. Who wouldn’t? What’s more, Greece and Cyprus both have large communities of expat retirees who decided to be on vacation full time!
This means that in addition to the always eager-to-chat Greeks (who are, by the way, among the most fluent non-native English speakers in the world), you’ll probably find active expat communities definitely in Athens, Crete, Rhodes, and the Peloponnese.
What motivates people to move to Greece part-time? The welcoming atmosphere in the winter, the real connections, the true sense of belonging.
5. Great places in Greece to stay half-year
There’s definitely a perfect place for you in Greece to stay for six months or more depending on what it is you want and your style.
• Sea, sun & warm weather? Crete (Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion), Rhodes, Kalamata and Nafplio
• Nightlife, culture and and people? Athens, Thessaloniki, Volos, and Corfu
• Balance and island vibes? Aegina, Spetses, Poros, and Hydra (all near Athens), Kythera, Syros, Naxos (main town), Rhodes, and Tinos
• Fresh air and mountain beauty? Mt Pelion, Nafpaktos.
6. Visa or residency
If you’re not from the EU and are thinking about staying in Greece a bit longer, here’s the quick breakdown of what you need to know:
• Short Trips (No Visa Hassle)
If you’re from the U.S. or the U.K., you can stay in Greece for up to 90 days in a 180-day window without doing any paperwork.
• Digital Nomad Visa
Working remotely? Greece has a visa just for that. Read more about that here.
• Long-Stay Visa (Type D)
Want to stay longer than 90 days? You’ll need a long-stay visa first. Once you arrive in Greece with it, you can apply for a proper residence permit.
• Retiree-Friendly Option: The FIP Permit
Thinking about spending your golden years under the Greek sun? The Financially Independent Person permit can make this happen for non-EU citizens.
- It starts with a 3-year residence permit, and you can renew it.
- You just need to show proof of steady income, usually your pension or other passive income.
• Golden Visa
If you’re considering buying property in Greece, this is the way to go.
- Invest in real estate and you can get a five-year renewable residence permit.
- Bonus: You can travel around the Schengen Area (29 border-free countries in Europe) without extra visas.
- And there’s no rule saying you have to live in Greece full-time, so you can come and go as you please.
The Challenges of Winter Living in Greece
As always, I want to be honest with my readers. Though Greece has been my home of choice for over 30 years, there are pros and cons to living in here as a foreigner.
If you do decide to move to Greece and spend your winters here:
– You’ll need to figure out how to keep your new home warm – rented or bought. Temperatures by the sea may be warm outside but humidity does take a toll. Many older houses or apartments lack insulation or central heating.
– You definitely won’t be paying as much for heating as you did back home if you’re from a Northern European country but heating costs may get out of control if you’re not careful. Petrol, electricity, and gas can be expensive in winter and you’ll be unpleasantly surprised by the spike in utility bills from late December to February.
– Shorter days, less sunlight. Yes, most of you have visited Greece in the summer when the sun sets at 10 pm. In winter, and especially up north, it gets darker much earlier like around 4.30 pm.
– Add to that seemingly empty towns, islands, or villages. If you’re used to the massive summer tourist crowds, you might feel a bit isolated when most shops, hotels, and businesses close (especially on the islands) for winter, and you find yourself with a handful of permanent residents only and a single choice for an outing – most likely the “kafeneio” (coffee house).
– Expect limited services and transportation options. If you decide to move to a small Greek island, expect fewer ferry services in winter, and in the mountains, some villages are snowed in, may have icy roads, and limited public transport.
– Everything is done at a much slower pace and this includes bureaucratic procedures and public services of all sorts. Also have in mind that everything literally stops before, during, and after national holidays like Christmas, New Year’s, Epiphany Day. It’s like Greeks need a week of adjustment either way!
– One of the hardest things to do in Greece nowadays is to find long-term housing. Of course, there are many real estate services for foreigners seeking homes which are a safer option but sometimes more expensive. Many landlords in Greece now prefer short-term Airbnb-style lets. If you do try to rent on your own, make sure to negotiate the price and have in writing the duration of your stay and all the relevant details.
– The weather is mild but depending on where you decide to live, there may be rain, winds, humidity, and even snow.
– Cost of living: grocery prices are increasing by the day and taking a toll on Greeks, who have among the lowest salaries in the EU. They are still relatively lower than abroad. Eating out is also much cheaper… still, especially in the winter.
Maria’s Tips for Moving to Greece in Winter
1. Choose your location wisely: the Peloponnese, Crete, Kalamata, Nafplio, and Rhodes have milder winters. For those of you seeking isolation and nature, pick a Greek island like Naxos, Syros, Tinos, Spetses, Poros, Lipsi, or Aegina. Want both city life, milder weather, and to be close to nature? Thessaloniki, Ioannina, Rafina (near Athens). For culture: Athens, Thessaloniki, Volos, Kavala. Want the real Greek winter experience? Arachova, Pelion, and Metsovo.
2. Always ask about the heating provided for your rental.
3. Humidity is the Number 1 winter issue in Greece, so getting a humidifier will make a huge difference in comfort and heating efficiency.
4. December and January are full of public service closures, so start your paperwork early or expect delays until late January.
5. Digital nomad? Read more about best cities for digital nomads in my Working Remotely from Greece post. For internet users overall, speeds are not as quick in remote parts of the country and sometimes islands suffer from power outages. So make sure to check when you rent a flat. Additionally, especially in cities like Athens and Thessaloniki, there are some cool co-working spaces.
7. Connect! Connect! Connect! Connect with people who have done it before you. A good idea is to join Facebook expat groups. And start connecting with the locals: take part in local events, take Greek language or traditional Greek dance lessons, sign up at the gym, frequent the same cafe.
Imagine Your Life in Greece in Winter
Closing off this post, I would like to create a picture of what your life in Greece in winter can be like for those daring the change or move.
An early morning can be a rejuvenating dive in the sea – I am sure you will become a “chimerinos kolymvitis” (winter swimmer). I did, and it’s one of the best decisions I’ve ever made! Never thought it was possible.
Or an early morning can be a leisurely stroll by the seaside, in the woods, or in town. A few “kalimeras” and some smiles. And then a visit to the “laiki” open air market for some fresh fruit, veggies, fish, and of course, freshly baked bread and goodies (and there are so many temptations!) from the village bakery.
You can then “officially” start your day with a coffee and a “tyropita” (cheese pie) or “spanakopita” (spinach pie). Do NOT look at your smart phone or turn on your computer. Just breathe in and enjoy Greece’s brilliant light.
An hour later, you can either work from home or from a cafe with a beautiful sea or mountain view, or if you’re a pensioner, spend time doing a hobby like painting, reading, making jams or spoon sweets, cooking, or renovating old items, or even my favorite, gardening. The sunlight and the weather in Greece is so mild, you could start your own mini-farm planting a few olive trees, orange and lemon trees, a fig tree, and definitely an apricot tree. And that’s enough to keep you busy all year round.
In the evening, another walk on the beach, in the village or along the promenade. Maybe a small meze and some ouzo or retsina wine with a few new friends or even alone. I’ve been doing that ever since I came to Greece in my 20s. Or even dinner with some Greek wine in a taverna.
And this my friends is the secret to living a good, long life like a Greek. If you were at home, it would mean early morning shovelling the snow in the driveway, wearing a ton of clothes, winter underwear, gloves, boots, hats to just go out, scary driving … if not snowed in by the ice, and paying out of your nose for heating in sub-zero temperatures. Now there’s some food for thought!
👉🏼 Dream of visiting Greece? Start planning
♫ I end today’s post with one of the most famous Greek singers in the world: Nana Mouskouri, performing here “Spiti Mou, Spitaki Mou” (Home Sweet Home) to the verse of Greek poet Nikos Gatsos and the music of three masters of the sort: Manos Hadjidakis, Stavros Xarhakos, and Loukianos Kilaidonis released in 1972.
Enjoy!
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