Many of you have decided to travel to Greece and the Greek islands off season. And that’s great. I have been doing it for years and I don’t regret it a single bit… but there are some things you should know if this is your first time vacationing in Greece in the autumn, and why not early winter. Below you’ll find 15 tried and tested tips for traveling to Greece in the fall. Take note. Sometimes small things can make a big difference in how we experience a destination.
15 Essential Things to Know Before Traveling to Greece in the Fall
1. Less time to sit in the sun!
Yes, daylight is now getting shorter. Once October arrives, life in Greece changes. I remember as a teen I used to hate this time of year…felt a bit down. So have in mind that in October the sun sets at around 6:30 pm, and by November it’s at 5:30pm. This means that you either have to wake up much earlier to fit in all the things you want to do – this includes sunbathing, swimming and visiting sites or Greek island hopping (if that was your plan) or just accept that you will be more laid back doing much less. Which is, my friends, just fine.
2. Where are all the people?
As much as I hate to admit it, many places in Greece, especially the Greek islands and far-off villages on the mainland end up with populations smaller than 100. This also means that many island hotels lock up. This is thankfully changing in many places. So I recommend before you plan to visit a small Greek island to ask hotels when they officially close for the season. You do not want to be the last one there, trust me. Usually it’s mid-October.
This also applies to bars, cafes, restaurants, sports rentals. Visiting late in the fall you just may come across a ghost town. I remember one year on Ios, it was me, the cats, a few locals and very few places to socialize. I loved it but it’s not everyone’s cup of coffee or dream. So make sure you’re fine with being alone or making news friends.
3. Ferry to the Greek islands, what ferry?
Ohhh… the Greek ferry experience, I can write about it for days. It’s a rite of passage. One that gets even harder in the fall and winter. Finding a ferry to go and come back from the Greek islands, mainly the smaller ones, is like solving a Mensa problem. So first, I recommend you ALWAYS book your return. Secondly, make sure to keep a buffer day or even two if you have a flight.
And because you may be wondering: Ferry schedules in Greece are reduced off season because there is less demand. Delays are also common due to the weather. Many ferries service dozens of islands in one go. You can of course always book a flight instead but only for the islands that have airports.
⛴ Book your ferry boat tickets to the Greek islands!
4. Where’s the bus?
Public bus schedules on the Greek islands mainly are cut in half by October. So no more regular service. This slows down even more in November and December with buses showing up maybe twice a day if not once. So renting a car is your best bet this time of year. If you rent a scooter be prepared for the chill with a windbreaker.
5. Call all museums and sites ahead.
Autumn and winter hours for most of Greece’s archaeological sites and museums change. So if you’re planning your trip around visits to sites and museums check opening hours and in my view do these earliest in the day.
►10 + 1 Perfect Places to Visit in Greece in Fall or Winter
6. Is there heat?
Make sure to ask this before you rent a room and even hotel stay. I can’t say this enough. Greeks have a very strange understanding of what it means to feel comfortable. Many island rooms and hotels feel a bit cold and damp and this is logical because they are by the sea plus fewer hours of sun and lower temperatures. But once it’s dark out, you will need a bit of heat in the room. Sadly, I speak from bad experience. Won’t reveal the island but it was way back in the 1990s.
7. Greece in the rain? Whole new experience
Rain can be nice and romantic as long as you are prepared. September, October and November bring rainy days to Greece and the Greek islands. Usually, storms do not last long but sitting on a wet sandy beach is not always fun. The autumn smells – herbs, sand, and leaves – however are intoxicating as are the colors of the sky. So 1) do not swim in the sea when it’s raining and mainly when there is a thunderstorm. 2) Gather your gear, find a seaside taverna, order an ouzo and meze and listen to the falling rain. The luxury of simplicity.
8. Show me the cash
Yes, you can now use credit cards everywhere in Greece but… yes, there is a but… in small mountain villages or on islands, ATMs either run out of money and are not refilled until who knows when, there is only one ATM available, or it is very far away. Also tavernas, cafes and bakeries usually prefer cash if it’s for small sums. So ask before you order.
9. Iced coffee? Are you mad?
Like I’ve explained in my “How Do Enjoy Coffee Like a Greek” post, there are unwritten rules in Greece on how we take our coffee. Rule 1: yes, iced freddo or frappe are popular in the summer but in the fall and winter it’s time for warm coffee be it espresso, Greek coffee, Cappuccino, or even Nescafe. To be honest, I actually know autumn is here when I get an urge for warm coffee in the morning. A whole new ritual!
► 6 Greek Villages and Towns That Are Better in the Fall
10. Never on a Sunday!
Although this was a hard rule a decade ago, things have sadly changed. I remember when finding anything open on Sundays in Greece was near to impossible. Things are not like that today but on small Greek islands and in mountain villages on the mainland it still very much applies. The reason? Quality family time, rest, socializing – all things that are the age-old secrets to living a good and long life.
11. Be healthy, take a siesta
Again like the Sundays rule, it applies more to rural Greece – ie villages, small towns, islands that are not touristy. So this means that nap time is very much respected in these places. Why? To stay sane and healthy. So expect shops including coffee houses, bakeries and mini markets to close at around 1.30pm and reopen at 5pm.
12. Keep on swimming
Yes, the weather may be a bit cooler but you can definitely still swim. The sea waters especially in the Southern Peloponnese like Mani and on Crete are still warm. Sea water temperatures get cold after the first snows melt in March. So yes you can still swim in October and November. Read my tried and tested tips on swimming in Greece all year round.
►5 Unusual Things to Do in Winter in Greece
13. Hit the road … with caution
As you can imagine, roads on the Greek islands and in the mountains are already narrow, with bends and often scary views. So add to that herds of sheep taking their daily walk, goats emerging from nowhere, fresh new holes in the pavement, sudden thick fog, leaves and water not to mention ice higher up making roads slippery. So… take it slow and be prepared. And always prefer to drive in the day time. Usually these roads have little or no lighting. So plan your day trips accordingly and start early to make sure you’re back by sunset.
14. What’s for dinner?
Not your usual wide variety of tourist fare. Come fall or winter, tavernas and restaurants change their menus and instead go seasonal. Which is one more thing I love about traveling off season. Everything is a surprise! In mountain villages, it’s best to just ask what’s on for the day. Usually one or two mains (meats usually), eggs and potatoes, plus greens (“horta”), shredded cabbage and carrot salad, and pites (pies). On the islands, the same applies. Ask for the catch of the day. And yes, you’ll find plenty of vegan or vegetarian foods to eat. This is Greece, the home of the famous Mediterranean diet!
15. Have a Plan B
The essence of autumn is change. Everything is in constant flux. It can be super clear and sunny one minute and raining with thunder rumbling in the distance the next. You can start your day warm and cozy and shift to cold and damp in an instant. So be flexible and adaptive as our friend Darwin observed. Having a Plan B means you’ll enjoy your day whatever the conditions. It is after all only up to us to be happy and grateful anywhere anytime.
👉🏼 Find the best hotel deals for you
Maria’s Fall in Greece Survival Kit
✓ a good quality cotton zip hoodie
✓ water resistant windbreaker men’s and women’s
✓ light weight fleece women’s and men’s
✓ Buff neck warmer – an absolute must
✓ waterproof socks women’s and men’s
✓ a waterproof wet bag. I believe the 10l size is best
✓ all-weather vest: women’s and men’s
✓ a mosquito repellent or this plant based DEET-free choice
✓ a first aid kit that includes this ointment for jellyfish or bee stings and insect bites.
✓ a strong power bank so you’re covered at all times
✓ a BPA-free insulated water bottle
👉🏼 Dream of visiting Greece? Start planning
♫ I end today’s post with a song about fall by popular Greek laika artist Paschalis Terzis. “Fthinoporiase”(Fall is here). And so are the stunning colors and intoxicating smells.
Enjoy!
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